Methodically going thru aircraft to try to cure WobbleOfDeath. Here are some pics of my work. I think this series of posts will also be a good example of setting up a Nova/CX20 from scratch.

 
Removed everything from PowerBoard plate and cleaned away old foam-tape.
 
Since the FC boards are not actually screwed down inside white plastic case, there is some movement. I'm not sure, but I think the PCBs (and attached sensors) can vibrate inside case. I added 2 small pieces of gyro (single-sided and plush) foam-tape to inside of case bottom (not on top where barometer-foam piece is). Seems to work fine.
Zeal gel-tape is highly recommended to mount FC and isolate it from aircraft vibrations. It's not that costly when you consider how far it goes. It seems that while the cheaper alternative "plush gyro mounting tape" also isolates FC from vibrations, it allows the FC to micro-rock-and-sway, which ends up making it an inferior solution ... the Zeal is confirmed to be much better suited for this task. I used 4 cubed 11mm x 11mm pieces as recommended (one in each corner).

 
FC is again perpendicular to front of aircraft, but now mounted with gyro in exact middle of aircraft (distance between motor shafts). I am mounting in the Default Flight-Controller Orientation (aka AHRS_ORIENTATION,0 ). The RX radio now (foam taped) on it's side, in only other place it will fit.
 
 

 
 
 
 Accelerometer/Gyro chip (on top PCB, inside FC) should be right under edge of red "O" in NOVA label, specifically market by dot on nylon tie-strap. Another way to measure is ... between Pins 2 & 3, and just past the middle (going in other direction).  
 


Final placement. Nothing touches each other or any Power-Board component. Everything is loosely tied-down to deter any un-wanted vibrations. Power-Board layout and USB cable further limit possible GPS-Module locations. Specially-cut a gray hard-foam piece to extend platform for GPS-Module, and wedged and foam-tapped in place level. No more RX antenna on outside but one is close to it's old location (but now inside and on opposite side). Near front area is left for FC-RX wiring, and any future upgrades like maybe a SBUS-CPPM converter. Re-mounted 915mhz Telemetry radio back underneath quad where it was before.
 
 

Re-mounted Compass/ Magnetometer in a new way with black foam tape and nylon tie-strap (but no hot-glue). Minimum metal screws, and use non-magnetic screw-driver. Simple is good. Red wire is Positive (VCC +3.0v - 3.3v) and Black is GND - verified with meter.

 
Flight Controller and Radio Wiring
 
Still using connection method #2 from HobbyKing PnF Setup Video (fairly standard but connecting "Signal Only" as allowed by bridged power rails).
 
 X8R-RXAPM-FC
RC Cable 1CH-1 VerticalCH-1 Vertical
RC Cable 2CH 2-4 Horizontal (signals only)CH 2-4 Horizontal (signals only)
RC Cable 3CH 5-7 Horizontal (signals only)CH 5-7 (FC Aux 1-3) Horiz
A-JumperCH 8CH 8 (FC Aux 4)
BEC 5vSBUS

Notes:
  • Power from BEC-5v goes to RX first, and then to Flight Controller. FC really gets its 5volts from CH-1 connection.
  • Vertical connections are the standard way, with standard RC-Cable radio plug (Gnd, Power, and Signal).
  • I used "black to the right" when plugging in horizontal "servo-like" RC Cables.
  • A-Jumper is a standard (single-pin) 3inch Arduino Jumper cable
  • While Channel-Signal-Rail is on FC bottom, it's on X8R's top (opposite).
  • By using previously unused SBUS socket for power, frees a standard channel. It shares the same power-rails.
  • At this point, I can't even see a reason to need BEC-5v routed to quad's under-carriage connection panel. If need arises in the future, I can just use a RC Y-cable.
  • This simple wiring works fine again (for now). When and if I get my gimbal, I will switch over to a FrSky SBUS-to-CPPM Converter wiring setup.
Good pic that someone made.
The white boxes are where you connect Dupont (servo like) RC-Cables. Mine is mostly like this pic. Only difference is that I went ahead and connected CH-6 also to RX (in case needed later). Red VCC and Black GND drawn boxes are just informational.
 
Another good pic someone drew
This is post 1 of 3 for the rebuild. See next post for APM and radio setup and programming.
 

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